Salicylic acid and retinol are a powerhouse combination for treating acne-prone skin and signs of aging, but can you use them together?
The answer is . . . complicated.
For most people, layering a salicylic acid serum and a retinol serum on top of each other will cause side effects like:
dryness
flaking skin
and irritation
Therefore, most people will be better off applying them at different times of the day or on alternate nights.
This article will explain everything you need to know about salicylic acid, retinol, and how to use them together.
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is an exfoliating acid and a popular active ingredient commonly found in skincare products.
Also known as a beta hydroxy acid, salicylic acid is the gold standard in treating acne and clogged pores thanks to its fat-soluble nature.
In fact, salicylic acid is one of the few ingredients listed on the FDA monograph for treating acne!
Typically, you’ll find salicylic acid in serums, toners, moisturizers, and, though rare, even facial oils!
How does salicylic acid work?
By the nature of its molecular structure, salicylic acid is a lipophilic beta-hydroxy acid.
“Lipophillic” means “fat loving” – basically, salicylic acid can dissolve dead skin cells and other fatty materials.
Therefore, salicylic acid molecules easily get into your pores to dissolve oil and dead skin cells, allowing them to be flushed out.
Mandelic acid is often compared to salicylic acid due to this same property.
By getting rid of these oily substances, salicylic acid products can help cut down on breakouts for people with acne-prone skin.
Additionally, salicylic acid targets whiteheads, blackheads, and sebaceous filaments.
Benefits of Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid has tons of benefits for people with oily skin, such as:
Reducing breakouts
Fighting skin texture
Treating seborrheic dermatitis
Getting rid of blackheads
Studies show salicylic acid even has anti-inflammatory properties and can help treat mild acne.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative known for its ability to increase collagen production and speed up skin cell turnover.
Further, it can promote smoother, firmer skin by fighting hyperpigmentation and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
You can find it over-the-counter in the form of a retinol serum or even a retinol cream at any beauty supply or drug store.
How does retinol work?
Retinol works by undergoing two conversion steps to become retinoic acid.
Then, retinoic acid binds to your retinoid receptors which tells your body: “Hey, make me some new skin!”
This process speeds up skin cell turnover and stimulates collagen and elastin production.
However, it can also reduce your skin lipids, so it’s important to use a moisturizer after applying any retinoids.
Benefits of Retinol
Studies show that retinol has tons of benefits! It can:
Speed up skin cell turnover
Stimulate skin renewal
Reduce texture on your skin’s surface
Fight hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone
Controlling excess oil production
Plus, when used together in a skincare routine, retinol and salicylic acid can be a powerful combination for fighting acne.
Retinol vs. Salicylic Acid: Which one is better for acne?
Salicylic acid is the more common choice to fight acne, while retinol is the better choice to fight signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles.
That being said, both ingredients are effective treatments, and you can use them both in your skincare routine.
For example, this study suggests that while 2% salicylic acid formulas are effective at treating acne, they’re not as potent as retinoids.
However, it’s important to note that this study focused on the use of adapalene, an acne-specific retinoid, and not retinol serums specifically.
How to Use Salicylic Acid and Retinol Together
If you’re wondering how you can use these two acne-fighting ingredients together, look no further!
Use two different products: try washing your face with a salicylic acid cleanser, then apply your retinol serum. By washing off the salicylic acid before applying retinol, you’re less likely to induce irritation.
Use them at different times of day: try wearing your salicylic acid product in the morning and your retinol serum at night to avoid mixing too many active ingredients simultaneously.
Use them on alternate nights: try applying your salicylic acid serum on one night, then apply your retinol serum on the next night.
If you experience any signs of irritation, you should reduce salicylic acid use, reduce retinol use, or consider removing one of them from your routine altogether.
Can you combine salicylic acid and retinol?
To avoid irritation, you should not combine salicylic acid and retinol together in the same skincare routine.
Instead, it’s best to either use a wash-off salicylic acid cleanser and apply your retinol serum afterwards, or use the two ingredients on separate nights altogether.
This is true for combining most acne-fighting ingredients with salicylic acid such as benzoyl peroxide, mandelic acid, and even tretinoin.
Can you mix salicylic acid and retinol?
No, it is best that you don’t mix salicylic acid with retinol, especially if you have sensitive skin.
The combination of these two ingredients can be very drying and cause side effects like
stinging
burning
itchiness
and redness
All of these are signs of irritation and a compromised skin barrier.
Can you mix retinol with other exfoliating acids?
Generally, you should not mix retinol with any other exfoliating acids, including:
mandelic acid
lactic acid
and glycolic acid
This is because these combinations of ingredients can cause side effects like irritation.
That being said, research demonstrates that the combination of retinol and alpha hydroxy acids can be even more effective at fighting hyperpigmentation that using one or the other by themselves.
Should you wear sunscreen when using salicylic acid and retinol?
Yes, you should wear sunscreen when using retinol as studies show that retinoids induce photosensitivity.
This is true for retinol, retinaldehyde, adapalene, and tretinoin.
While research shows that salicylic acid does not induce photosensitivity, if you’re using it alongside retinol, you should wear sunscreen during the day.
The Bottom Line: Can I use salicylic acid with retinol?
Yes, you can use salicylic acid and retinol in the same skincare routine.
While the two active ingredients can cause skin irritation, there are ways to get around this.
For example, instead of layering salicylic acid products and retinol together, you can consider using a wash-off salicylic acid cleanser and following up with a retinol treatment.
Alternatively, you could consider using a leave-on salicylic acid treatment during the day and applying retinol at night.
That being said, as long as you can tolerate layering both products together without signs of irritation, it’s okay for you to do so!
Frequently Asked Questions
To avoid irritation, use salicylic acid before retinol. Start with a salicylic acid cleanser, then apply your retinol serum for effective results without causing dryness.
Avoid mixing retinol with exfoliating acids like mandelic, lactic, or glycolic acid. Combining these may lead to irritation, so it’s best to use them on separate occasions.
Yes, you can. Apply tretinoin at night for skin renewal and use salicylic acid in the morning for a refreshed look. Ensure to wear sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.
It’s best to avoid combining salicylic acid and retinol with acids like mandelic, lactic, or glycolic acid, as this may lead to irritation and compromise your skin barrier.
Yes, you can. Apply tretinoin at night and salicylic acid in the morning, but always wear sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.
